Tour Reports - Fall 2007
Gettysburg, September 6-9
The National Park Service's deforestation program, underway for several
years, aims to restore historic battle-era vistas at Gettysburg by removing
timber. The resulting visual changes have been dramatic. While it's true that
the commendable goal of recreating the historic landscape is legitimate, the
loss of shade at various parts of the battlefield was bound to have an
impact upon visitors on a warm day. So it was steamy for a good deal of our
Civil War Weekend trip to Gettysburg Sept. 7-9, 2007.
Summer was a late bloomer this year on the East Coast, bringing on the
heat in August and early September. Even in Pennsylvania the weather was
unseasonably hot after Labor Day. But we persevered, thanks to staying in
the shade whenever possible, and use of the folding chairs, which have
become the relief of many a CWW tour participant over the years. They
always keep tour participants comfortable, fresh and attentive - and they
make me a lot more interesting as a result.
This group was an extraordinary mix, 13 people from six states (New York,
Virginia, Illinois, Arizona, Florida and Georgia). We had one member of the
group back for his third CWW trip, our friend Neal O'Loughlin, from
Arlington, Va. I picked Neal up at Dulles Airport, where he had taken the
shuttle bus from his home. We had a great reminiscence as we headed
north toward the Mason-Dixon Line about our Shiloh tour of October 2006.
Neal's keen interest in the Civil War gives him the agility to move easily from
battlefield to battlefield. Once in Gettysburg, I dropped Neal off at the
Keystone Inn Bed & Breakfast, our regular headquarters, and headed
north once again on U.S. 15 to the Harrisburg airport. Before I departed, we
had the chance to meet Jack and Lori Preston from Freeburg, Illinois, part
of our group. At the airport I picked up Dick and Alice Stratton of Atlantic
Beach, Fla., and Phil and Martha Robertson from Columbus, Georgia, they
having flown up together (Phil and Alice are siblings). The timing on all
airport pick-ups and deliveries was right on time. I must admit I was greatly
relieved at not having to enter the Harrisburg airport, still tender from my
six-hour vigil there awaiting a tour member's delayed flight last June. Nice
enough airport, but . . .
Thursday night we all gathered in the Keystone Inn's living room for our
traditional meet and greet. Tour participants filled the room, and we got off
to a lively discussion about the many controversies and issues of
Gettysburg right away. In addition to Neal, the Strattons and the
Robertsons, we (re)met Jack and Lori, Marty, Peggy and Mary-Kate Rose
from Staten Island, NY, and Jeffrey Weltsch, Alan Wilson and Daniel Palmer
from Arizona.
Friday morning was warm and hazy as we departed the Keystone Inn
around 8 a.m. and picked up Jack and Lori at the nearby Brafferton Inn.
With such a relatively large group, we filled the Keystone Inn to capacity
and billeted the Prestons in the nearby Brafferton Inn. It was warm indeed
as we visited essential sites related to Gettysburg's first day of fighting,
walking loop hikes from the van parked on McPherson Ridge. We enjoyed
our picnic lunch and had a nice opportunity for conversation among the tour
group members. I asked Marty Rose, who works for the Associated Press in
a Manhattan office, about his 9/11 experiences, which, thankfully, were out
of harm's way. We also learned about Mary-Kate's educational scholarship.
Peggy Rose explains the scholarship:
"Mary-Kate was awarded a four-year scholarship to Moore Catholic High
School, Staten Island, NY in 2005. The Gullickson-McGuire scholarship was
given by the non-profit Maverick Foundation named for two former Moore
students. Joe Gullickson from the Moore Catholic HS Class of 1982, and a
FDNY Lieutenant with Ladder Company 101 in Red Hook, sacrificed his life
at the WTC on September 11, 2001 while saving the lives of others and is
truly a hero. Dan McGuire from the Moore Catholic HS Class of 1977,
tragically lost his life at the age of 17 in an automobile accident in
September of 1976. Dan was a natural leader and co-captain of the track
team. The foundation was formed by brothers of the two, Jim McGuire and
Bob Gullickson, who were friends with each other's brother through
grammar school and high school. Mary-Kate qualified with her excellent
grades and a winning essay. Mary-Kate is in the Scholars Program at
Moore, and a member in the National Honor Society.
"Mavericks" is the school nickname.
Part of the requirement of the scholarship is enrollment in the
Congressional Awards Program, in which participants are required to do
400 hours of community service, 200 hours of physical activity, 200 hours of
personal development, and several expedition/exploration trips with
overnight stays. The trip to Gettysburg helped Mary-Kate get 20 hours
during the 2.5 days of the exploration. The program culminates with
awarding of the prestigious gold medal on the floor of Congress, by our
Representative Vito Fossella (R-Staten Island/Brooklyn)."
Mary-Kate is obviously on her way to achieve great things in her life.
She's lovely and very comfortable with herself. It was great to have her
along and to be part of her awards program. I understand why Marty and
Peggy are so very proud of her.
Then it was on to Oak Hill and the Peace Memorial, Barlow Knoll, and,
finally, Cemetery Hill. Our discussion at the final stop showed that the ghost
of Stonewall Jackson clearly haunts Cemetery Hill. We completed the day at
5 p.m. and returned to the Keystone Inn, after which everyone experienced
their own evening in Gettysburg.
(Personally, I returned to Seminary Ridge on an independent mission to
locate a marker related to the Salem Light Artillery, a Confederate battery
composed of homeboys from the Roanoke Valley. After some additional
tromping around in fields and woods, I found the marker on the north side of
the railroad cut, in the edge of some woods behind the Quality Inn. Little is
known of the Salem artillery's role in the battle, and no wonder! According to
the marker, they were pretty inconsequential. But, hey, support your local
cannoneers, right? Anyway, I'm going to write an article for one of our local
newspapers about the Salem artillery unit at Gettysburg and their very
neglected marker, which is now barely legible.)
Saturday morning we reconvened at 8 a.m. at the Keystone, picked up Jack
and Lori en route and proceeded to Longstreet's headquarters beneath the
observation tower on Seminary Ridge. Once on site we introduced the
fundamental disagreement between Gens. Lee and Longstreet over how to
prosecute the battle. This produced a lively discussion about command
responsibilities. Several members of the group drew upon their own
experiences as members of the armed forces as they offered comments.
Here and throughout the weekend, Jeff's extensive knowledge of the Civil
War enriched the dialogue, as did Neal's. From Seminary Ridge we moved
on to the Round Tops and Joshua Chamberlain country. We enjoyed the
unparalleled views of the battlefield and the hazy mountains beyond from
the summit of Little Round Top. After breaking for a picnic lunch prepared
by our host Doris Martin of the Keystone Inn, we continued our journey of
July 2 at the Wheatfield, the Peach Orchard, Cemetery Ridge, Culp's Hill and
Cemetery Hill, finishing up at 5 p.m.
We did take a special excursion to the Rose Farm to learn more about the
experiences of Martha Robertson's kinsman, a member of the 50th Georgia
regiment, which fought under Gen. Paul Semmes. We located the battlefield
marker that told of the regiment and took Martha's picture in front of it. At
the Rose Farm, near the old stone farmhouse, I read an account of the 50th
regiment's experience on July 2 at Gettysburg, they being on the northern
edge of the Wheatfield fighting. Not much documentation was available
about the 50th specifically or Semmes' brigade in general. So it goes
sometimes with Civil War history. Still, being on site at the Rose Farm was
pretty close to being real, and the side trip was well worth the time and
effort. (Marty Rose commented that this Rose must have been from a
different side of his family -- another Rose by the same name, as the Bard
might have said.)
I picked everyone up around 7 p.m. and we drove to Fairfield for our
banquet at the Fairfield Inn. I always enjoy this drive. Saturday night in
Gettysburg tends to be pretty frenetic, as the town fills with tourists.
Fairfield, on the other hand, is a lovely village and the proprietors at
the Inn are always accommodating. They located us in their small banquet
room, and gave us good service. I particularly enjoyed sharing a table with
the Roses and the Robertsons, savoring the conversation and the regional
diversity that their company offered.
Over at the other table, unbeknownst to me, the other members of the
group learned about Dick Stratton and his extraordinary story of being a
POW in Hanoi. Dick was very modest and matter-of-fact in telling it, so
characteristic of a true hero, which he certainly is. Up to that point, I had
enjoyed Dick's dry sense of humor and keen observations, but had no idea
about his ordeal and triumph. He had mentioned being a friend of Sen.
John McCain's, and now we all understood how that relationship was forged,
under terrible duress in captivity. Phil also spoke at our table of Alice's
extraordinary work with the wives of other POWs, and how they took care of
one another during that extended period of uncertainty.
Later that evening, Peggy Rose told me the following story:
"Our older daughter, Megan, is a junior biology/pre-health/pre-med major at
Le Moyne College in Syracuse, N.Y. She saw a program on the Military
Channel a few months ago about the POWs from Vietnam in which Dick
Stratton was featured. As a young woman she was struck by his bravery
and courage. It moved her greatly, and since good friends of hers are
recent graduates of the Naval Academy, and now in flight school, it made it
more personal and humbling. She wants to pursue a career as a doctor of
physical therapy to help soldiers/veterans heal their wounds."
Peggy had approached Dick on Friday morning, told him of the influence he
had on her daughter, and thanked him for it and for his courage.
Wow! What an incredible coincidence! What an honor to host such a war
hero! It dawned on me that I, too, recalled Dick Stratton and his dignified
return to America upon release from Hanoi.
Sunday morning we reassembled at 8 a.m. and visited the Leister House,
site of the Union commanders' war council on the night of July 2. Then we
drove on to Seminary Ridge. Group members got their first look at the field
of Longstreet's assault (aka Pickett's Charge) occurred. That formidable
vista always produces an intellectual -- if not audible -- gasp. I dropped
them off to walk the attack and drove around to Cemetery Ridge, near the
stone fence angle penetrated by the Confederates. I read about that
conflagration and the words hung in the warm air, "like the notes of a
church organ," as one soldier put it, as everyone gazed out over the field
and contemplated what happened on that July day. We took a group photo
at the monument near the famous trees, took a quick visit to the Visitor's
Center and then adjourned back at the Keystone Inn. I took the Strattons
and Robertsons back to the Harrisburg airport, swung back through
Gettysburg and picked up Neal, and returned him to Dulles Airport.
Great trip, remarkable people, and I returned home feeling once again the
goodness and value of the Civil War Weekend experience.
Gettysburg, September 6-9
The National Park Service's deforestation program, underway for several
years, aims to restore historic battle-era vistas at Gettysburg by removing
timber. The resulting visual changes have been dramatic. While it's true that
the commendable goal of recreating the historic landscape is legitimate, the
loss of shade at various parts of the battlefield was bound to have an
impact upon visitors on a warm day. So it was steamy for a good deal of our
Civil War Weekend trip to Gettysburg Sept. 7-9, 2007.
Summer was a late bloomer this year on the East Coast, bringing on the
heat in August and early September. Even in Pennsylvania the weather was
unseasonably hot after Labor Day. But we persevered, thanks to staying in
the shade whenever possible, and use of the folding chairs, which have
become the relief of many a CWW tour participant over the years. They
always keep tour participants comfortable, fresh and attentive - and they
make me a lot more interesting as a result.
This group was an extraordinary mix, 13 people from six states (New York,
Virginia, Illinois, Arizona, Florida and Georgia). We had one member of the
group back for his third CWW trip, our friend Neal O'Loughlin, from
Arlington, Va. I picked Neal up at Dulles Airport, where he had taken the
shuttle bus from his home. We had a great reminiscence as we headed
north toward the Mason-Dixon Line about our Shiloh tour of October 2006.
Neal's keen interest in the Civil War gives him the agility to move easily from
battlefield to battlefield. Once in Gettysburg, I dropped Neal off at the
Keystone Inn Bed & Breakfast, our regular headquarters, and headed
north once again on U.S. 15 to the Harrisburg airport. Before I departed, we
had the chance to meet Jack and Lori Preston from Freeburg, Illinois, part
of our group. At the airport I picked up Dick and Alice Stratton of Atlantic
Beach, Fla., and Phil and Martha Robertson from Columbus, Georgia, they
having flown up together (Phil and Alice are siblings). The timing on all
airport pick-ups and deliveries was right on time. I must admit I was greatly
relieved at not having to enter the Harrisburg airport, still tender from my
six-hour vigil there awaiting a tour member's delayed flight last June. Nice
enough airport, but . . .
Thursday night we all gathered in the Keystone Inn's living room for our
traditional meet and greet. Tour participants filled the room, and we got off
to a lively discussion about the many controversies and issues of
Gettysburg right away. In addition to Neal, the Strattons and the
Robertsons, we (re)met Jack and Lori, Marty, Peggy and Mary-Kate Rose
from Staten Island, NY, and Jeffrey Weltsch, Alan Wilson and Daniel Palmer
from Arizona.
Friday morning was warm and hazy as we departed the Keystone Inn
around 8 a.m. and picked up Jack and Lori at the nearby Brafferton Inn.
With such a relatively large group, we filled the Keystone Inn to capacity
and billeted the Prestons in the nearby Brafferton Inn. It was warm indeed
as we visited essential sites related to Gettysburg's first day of fighting,
walking loop hikes from the van parked on McPherson Ridge. We enjoyed
our picnic lunch and had a nice opportunity for conversation among the tour
group members. I asked Marty Rose, who works for the Associated Press in
a Manhattan office, about his 9/11 experiences, which, thankfully, were out
of harm's way. We also learned about Mary-Kate's educational scholarship.
Peggy Rose explains the scholarship:
"Mary-Kate was awarded a four-year scholarship to Moore Catholic High
School, Staten Island, NY in 2005. The Gullickson-McGuire scholarship was
given by the non-profit Maverick Foundation named for two former Moore
students. Joe Gullickson from the Moore Catholic HS Class of 1982, and a
FDNY Lieutenant with Ladder Company 101 in Red Hook, sacrificed his life
at the WTC on September 11, 2001 while saving the lives of others and is
truly a hero. Dan McGuire from the Moore Catholic HS Class of 1977,
tragically lost his life at the age of 17 in an automobile accident in
September of 1976. Dan was a natural leader and co-captain of the track
team. The foundation was formed by brothers of the two, Jim McGuire and
Bob Gullickson, who were friends with each other's brother through
grammar school and high school. Mary-Kate qualified with her excellent
grades and a winning essay. Mary-Kate is in the Scholars Program at
Moore, and a member in the National Honor Society.
"Mavericks" is the school nickname.
Part of the requirement of the scholarship is enrollment in the
Congressional Awards Program, in which participants are required to do
400 hours of community service, 200 hours of physical activity, 200 hours of
personal development, and several expedition/exploration trips with
overnight stays. The trip to Gettysburg helped Mary-Kate get 20 hours
during the 2.5 days of the exploration. The program culminates with
awarding of the prestigious gold medal on the floor of Congress, by our
Representative Vito Fossella (R-Staten Island/Brooklyn)."
Mary-Kate is obviously on her way to achieve great things in her life.
She's lovely and very comfortable with herself. It was great to have her
along and to be part of her awards program. I understand why Marty and
Peggy are so very proud of her.
Then it was on to Oak Hill and the Peace Memorial, Barlow Knoll, and,
finally, Cemetery Hill. Our discussion at the final stop showed that the ghost
of Stonewall Jackson clearly haunts Cemetery Hill. We completed the day at
5 p.m. and returned to the Keystone Inn, after which everyone experienced
their own evening in Gettysburg.
(Personally, I returned to Seminary Ridge on an independent mission to
locate a marker related to the Salem Light Artillery, a Confederate battery
composed of homeboys from the Roanoke Valley. After some additional
tromping around in fields and woods, I found the marker on the north side of
the railroad cut, in the edge of some woods behind the Quality Inn. Little is
known of the Salem artillery's role in the battle, and no wonder! According to
the marker, they were pretty inconsequential. But, hey, support your local
cannoneers, right? Anyway, I'm going to write an article for one of our local
newspapers about the Salem artillery unit at Gettysburg and their very
neglected marker, which is now barely legible.)
Saturday morning we reconvened at 8 a.m. at the Keystone, picked up Jack
and Lori en route and proceeded to Longstreet's headquarters beneath the
observation tower on Seminary Ridge. Once on site we introduced the
fundamental disagreement between Gens. Lee and Longstreet over how to
prosecute the battle. This produced a lively discussion about command
responsibilities. Several members of the group drew upon their own
experiences as members of the armed forces as they offered comments.
Here and throughout the weekend, Jeff's extensive knowledge of the Civil
War enriched the dialogue, as did Neal's. From Seminary Ridge we moved
on to the Round Tops and Joshua Chamberlain country. We enjoyed the
unparalleled views of the battlefield and the hazy mountains beyond from
the summit of Little Round Top. After breaking for a picnic lunch prepared
by our host Doris Martin of the Keystone Inn, we continued our journey of
July 2 at the Wheatfield, the Peach Orchard, Cemetery Ridge, Culp's Hill and
Cemetery Hill, finishing up at 5 p.m.
We did take a special excursion to the Rose Farm to learn more about the
experiences of Martha Robertson's kinsman, a member of the 50th Georgia
regiment, which fought under Gen. Paul Semmes. We located the battlefield
marker that told of the regiment and took Martha's picture in front of it. At
the Rose Farm, near the old stone farmhouse, I read an account of the 50th
regiment's experience on July 2 at Gettysburg, they being on the northern
edge of the Wheatfield fighting. Not much documentation was available
about the 50th specifically or Semmes' brigade in general. So it goes
sometimes with Civil War history. Still, being on site at the Rose Farm was
pretty close to being real, and the side trip was well worth the time and
effort. (Marty Rose commented that this Rose must have been from a
different side of his family -- another Rose by the same name, as the Bard
might have said.)
I picked everyone up around 7 p.m. and we drove to Fairfield for our
banquet at the Fairfield Inn. I always enjoy this drive. Saturday night in
Gettysburg tends to be pretty frenetic, as the town fills with tourists.
Fairfield, on the other hand, is a lovely village and the proprietors at
the Inn are always accommodating. They located us in their small banquet
room, and gave us good service. I particularly enjoyed sharing a table with
the Roses and the Robertsons, savoring the conversation and the regional
diversity that their company offered.
Over at the other table, unbeknownst to me, the other members of the
group learned about Dick Stratton and his extraordinary story of being a
POW in Hanoi. Dick was very modest and matter-of-fact in telling it, so
characteristic of a true hero, which he certainly is. Up to that point, I had
enjoyed Dick's dry sense of humor and keen observations, but had no idea
about his ordeal and triumph. He had mentioned being a friend of Sen.
John McCain's, and now we all understood how that relationship was forged,
under terrible duress in captivity. Phil also spoke at our table of Alice's
extraordinary work with the wives of other POWs, and how they took care of
one another during that extended period of uncertainty.
Later that evening, Peggy Rose told me the following story:
"Our older daughter, Megan, is a junior biology/pre-health/pre-med major at
Le Moyne College in Syracuse, N.Y. She saw a program on the Military
Channel a few months ago about the POWs from Vietnam in which Dick
Stratton was featured. As a young woman she was struck by his bravery
and courage. It moved her greatly, and since good friends of hers are
recent graduates of the Naval Academy, and now in flight school, it made it
more personal and humbling. She wants to pursue a career as a doctor of
physical therapy to help soldiers/veterans heal their wounds."
Peggy had approached Dick on Friday morning, told him of the influence he
had on her daughter, and thanked him for it and for his courage.
Wow! What an incredible coincidence! What an honor to host such a war
hero! It dawned on me that I, too, recalled Dick Stratton and his dignified
return to America upon release from Hanoi.
Sunday morning we reassembled at 8 a.m. and visited the Leister House,
site of the Union commanders' war council on the night of July 2. Then we
drove on to Seminary Ridge. Group members got their first look at the field
of Longstreet's assault (aka Pickett's Charge) occurred. That formidable
vista always produces an intellectual -- if not audible -- gasp. I dropped
them off to walk the attack and drove around to Cemetery Ridge, near the
stone fence angle penetrated by the Confederates. I read about that
conflagration and the words hung in the warm air, "like the notes of a
church organ," as one soldier put it, as everyone gazed out over the field
and contemplated what happened on that July day. We took a group photo
at the monument near the famous trees, took a quick visit to the Visitor's
Center and then adjourned back at the Keystone Inn. I took the Strattons
and Robertsons back to the Harrisburg airport, swung back through
Gettysburg and picked up Neal, and returned him to Dulles Airport.
Great trip, remarkable people, and I returned home feeling once again the
goodness and value of the Civil War Weekend experience.
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